Memories of Mapala: John Kelly Jr.'s Writings of His Kanaka Teacher

“Mapala,” by John Kelly

John and Kate Kelly’s son, John Kelly Jr., grew up as a Hawaiian boy, swimming, surfing, diving, fishing, and learning from the neighboring kānaka maoli, Native Hawaiians. This account was written about the man named Mapala, who, as a kupuna, mentor, and the boy’s adopted grandfather, taught John Jr., who he called Keoni, to fish and relate to the sea with respect and a deep reverence.

BLACK POINT, A HALF CENTURY AGO...

by John Kelly

A SMALL WHITE DOG with large worried eyes lingered at the

cave entrance, watching my every move. Warily, she dragged an

empty fire-blackened pot into the cave, a fishbag and her master's

net-patching needles. The cave, situated between two huge basalt

rocks, belonged to Mapala, who went to town to buy rice and tobacco.

I sat down to await his return. A few feet away, the dog faithfully

guarded Mapala's few things, watching me with large sorrowful eyes.

Mapala and I had first met at the moi hole below the cliff-he, an

elder Hawaiian kupuna, and I, a young boy. Returning, Mapala beckoned.

"Keoni," he said, "come tonight when the moon is there," pointing overhead.

"Bring thrownet." The afternoon sun cast its silver glitter on the sea.

When the moon was up there, it was after midnight. Mapala sat

chanting softly before a small fire in the clearing fronting the cave. A

tattered canvas extended the cave's shelter a few feet over the neatly

swept clearing.

"E-hele mai no hoʻi lalo (come sit down)" he said. "Keoni, I wen teach

you how catch moi, patch net. Now, come!" He led me to the cliff overlooking

the sea and our favorite moi hole. "You throw, catch three moi," he said.

How he knew, I'II never know, but after assembling my net, I threw to the

left in the dark waters and caught three large moi. The moi is a silver

migratory fish and a delicacy among Hawaiians.

Mapala wrapped each fish in ti leaves and cooked them in the fire.

He placed one before me, one in front of himself, and the third he set aside.

I ate silently, following his moves, as he chanted on. A warm glow from

the fire pushed back the night. Shadows flickered on the rocks. Moonlight

softened with passing clouds, while breaking waves intoned an ancient slow rhythm from the sea below.

Finally, Mapala arose and took the third fish to the water's edge.

Chanting more strongly, he consecrated the fish to the ʻaumakua (native

god) of the moi and to me, his adopted moʻopuna (grandchild). He then

told me to always remember Hawaiian custom: Never turn your back on the

sea, source of life; when you catch, keep only what you need; return some

to the sea giving thanks; and always share what you have.

The aumakua o ke kai (gods of the sea) will watch over you. "The moi

will follow wherever you go," he said. "And always remember: share with

others."

Mapala taught me all he knew about the sea, the moi, how to spot

their fins in the swirling foam waters of Lae o Kupikipikio (Point of Spouting

Waters, or Black Point). He showed me how to make heavy aho (cotton)

nets with the Hawaiian knot for the rough waters, and light linen nets for

ʻamaʻama (mullet) for inshore reef waters. He knew the comings and goings

of inshore fishes according to moon cycles, tides and spawning seasons. He

showed me where to pick opihi and haʻukeʻuke (limpets), to catch the darting

ʻaʻama (black crab) for uhu (parrotfish) bait.

My father, the artist, made some drawings and etchings of Mapala netfishing

along the Black Point cliffs. When Mapala died, my father made an

etching of his son throwing net left hand at the moi hole below Mapala's cave.

Above, in the cliff overlooking the sea, you can see the visage of Mapala,

ever watching over the well-being of his haole moʻopuna.

Memories remain of my Hawaiian teacher, the generous, knowledgable

and kindly Mapala, Hawaiian fisherman who lived in a Black Point cave a

half century ago...

How the Kellys Were Connected with the Baha'i Faith

As an accomplished artist raised in an activist household, it is no surprise that Kate Harland Kelly would be fascinated with the Baha'i Faith.

From The Molokai Dispatch:

“The Baha’i Faith began in 1844 in Persia, now modern day Iran. The Prophet-Founder Baha’u’llah was banished and imprisoned for over 40 years for teaching principles to establish peace and the unity of mankind.

These teachings were brought to Hawaii in 1901 by Agnes Baldwin Alexander, a daughter of early missionaries, who learned of the Faith on a trip to Europe. Alexander was the first person born in Hawaii to embrace the Baha’i Faith and Mary Kealiikahumoku Tilton Fantom was the first indigenous Hawaiian to become a Baha’í and to serve in its administration. The Baha’í message was also presented to Queen Liliʻuokalani in 1915, who was interested in its message of peace. There has been a Baha’i community on Molokai since the 1950s.

From 1910-1913, despite ill health, ‘Abdu’l-Baha travelled to Egypt, North America and Europe, where he proclaimed the essential principles of the Baha’í Faith, such as the equality of women and men, universal peace, removal of all forms of prejudice, the harmony of science and religion, and a spiritual solution to economic problems.”

Disciples of Baha'i were, and still are, found on every island in Hawaii. Kate converted to the Baha'i Faith, and it was an inspiration for John as well. His fine, detailed drypoint etching portrait of ‘Abdu’l-Baha depicts the religious leader with depth and skill.

For more information on the Baha'i Faith and Hawaii's branch of the religion, visit bahaihawaii.org.

August 2021 Exhibit Honors Hula and Features John and Kate Kelly

Premiere works by John and Kate Kelly

A major exhibit at the new Downtown Art Center features over 40 works by John and Kate Kelly as a “show within a show”.  “Hoʻopuka To Emerge: The Love of Hula” includes a variety of media from 10 other artists.  

Floyd Takeuchi, a renown photographer, is curating the exhibit which runs from August 3rd through the 28th. Opening Reception on Friday, August 6 from 5 to 8 p.m.

This will be the first time ever that Kate Kellyʻs extraordinary photography will be exhibited!  Hula themed photographs from 1930ʻs and 40ʻs will be premiered. Not to be missed!!

A variety of hula dancers by John Kelly will be exhibited; including drypoint and aquatint etchings, pastels, an oil painting and a work in charcoal. 

Some never before seen artwork include:

—A bronze sculpture of Kate’s hula dancer from the early 1930ʻs.

—Kate’s extraordinary vintage photographs of backyard hula.

—Johnʻs duo of large colorful watercolors brialliantly illustrating people strolling in Waikiki on a Saturday afternoon and night.

—Hula dancers by John in a rare range of media, including oil, charcoal, and pastel.

Stay tuned for more information! 

Click here for a gallery of Kate’s selected photographs.

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Downtown Art Center is located in Honoluluʻs Chinatown District at 1041 Nuʻuanu at Hotel St on the 2nd floor. They are open Tuesday - Sunday from 11:00 AM - 6:00 PM.

THE DUET PROJECT: Etchings & Photos Paired in Unique Offering

DUETS: Photos that inspired the art.

Film director Robert Bates represents Kelly Art Hawai’i in a discreet offering of four sets of Kate’s photographs and the corresponding etchings by John.

Hawaiian Decoration, a black and white aquatint, is one of the duets being offered.

Inquiries can be made through our contact page.